I want to talk to you about a newish category of fashion enthusiasts. Think of mainly young men, obsessed with one or two niche brands and active in subreddits or discord servers. This unique group of fashion lovers’ passion goes far beyond seasonal trends or catwalk reviews.
It’s a kind of obsessive devotion, but it’s also what makes this industry so endlessly fascinating. Unlike those who simply follow what’s new, these purists, often known in circles as Rickheads, Margielaheads, and similar nicknames, build their wardrobes and knowledge around a few chosen designers. For them, Rick Owens isn’t just a brand, it’s an aesthetic philosophy. Maison Margiela becomes almost a belief system, the deconstruction, the four white stitches.
Dressed up nostalgia
The ultimate term for these fanatic people is scathingly called fashion historians. Fashion historians aren’t just the academic types, not to disregard the profession at all. But you know the people obsessed with Galliano-era Dior or Tom Ford Gucci.These are people who know their labels, cuts, and collections better than most employees at the respected fashion houses. They can look at a deconstructed leather jacket or a strangely cut pair of trousers and tell you not just what season it’s from, but the exact collection, the story behind the design, and whether you’ve stumbled upon a holy grail or a fake. I think the webstore Grailed is a great source for authentic archive pieces.
Then there are the true fashion archivists. Somewhere between collectors and curators, these people dedicate themselves to preserving fashion’s past, not as dusty relics, but as wearable art. They hunt down rare archive Comme des Garçons from the eighties, and collect Yohji Yamamoto garments that might have only been produced in tiny runs. Their care keeps these garments from being forgotten and instead helps new generations appreciate them, whether held in private collections or offered in specialty stores and webshops for discovery.
Archive drops to appease the hype
All of this dedication feeds into interesting developments in recent years like the archive drop. Once an insider’s secret, archive drops have become headline events. Brands dig deep into their vaults, pulling out deadstock, early samples, or reissuing iconic pieces from past collections. For the purists and archivists, it’s an opportunity to fill a gap in a carefully built collection. A great example is the iconic Alexander McQueen skull scarf from the early 2000’s. Charli XCX was seen wearing Alexander McQueen’s skull print scarf back at Glastonbury June 2025. I don’t want to make you feel old but that’s close to two decades ago. She’s wearing what I assume is a true archival piece. But as luck would have it this scarf has made a return as an archival drop, and the replica is available online. Louis Vuitton officially relaunched its Murakami collection in early 2025. In 2003 under then creative director Marc Jacob this collaboration came to be an instant hit. Now 20 years later Louis Vuitton has re-released the brightly coloured prints again, to many excited Y2K fans.
At the same time, this growing fascination with archives and past collections connects beautifully with the rise of pre‑owned luxury. Where people once frowned upon buying second‑hand, now even rich celebrities actively choose to wear vintage pieces. For most people a pre‑owned luxury bag is often the only way to own a discontinued colour, a rare collaboration, or a style that’s become a culturally iconic moment. By doing so they tap into the excitement of collecting, express individuality and join a community.
Genuine brand ambassadors
In many ways, these purists and historians become the most authentic brand ambassadors a label could hope for, even if unofficially. Their encyclopaedic knowledge, dedication to preserving rare pieces, and passion for sharing that history online or at meet‑ups means they influence others organically. These ambassadors join or create communities and can help you build more followers, customers or new potential demographics. This is the best marketing you could ask for.