The role of a creative director in the fashion industry has traditionally been one centred on design, aesthetics and artistic vision of a brand. This position is responsible for the overall look and feel of collections, setting trends, and maintaining the brand’s identity. However, in recent years the industry has seen a shift where commerce and marketability have begun to play an increasingly dominant role. This is leading to what some describe as the “death” of the traditional creative director role focused purely on design.
Like Pharrell Williams working for Louis Vuitton as a creative director. He didn’t have a fashion degree or background but was able to take up the role and made headlines with his successful collections. He said in an interview with Vogue on the podcast The Run-Through ‘’I’m not a fashion designer, a creative director for sure’’. This exemplifies that the traditional creative design role has been repurposed into taking a broader scope and responsibilities.
Shift from design to commerce
There are several factors that have had an impact on the luxury fashion industry. Due to market pressures like digitisation and supply optimisation, the fashion industry has become more competitive and fast-paced. Often driven by the rise of fast fashion and the need for brands to release new collections more frequently. This has put pressure on creative directors to prioritise commercial viability over pure creativity.
Brands now have access to vast amounts of consumer data, which they use to inform design decisions. This data-driven approach often prioritises what sells over what is artistically innovative, potentially inhibiting the creativity of traditional creative directors. However the growing trend of celebrity and influencer collaborations means that designs are often tailored to appeal to the masses. Therefore collections need to generate buzz on social media, rather than pushing the boundaries of fashion design.
Additionally creative directors are increasingly being held accountable for the financial performance of their collections. This means they must balance their creative visions with the need to produce pieces that are likely to sell well. In turn this leads to safer, more commercial designs. Also generally many top fashion universities fail to educate adequately on economics in a digitised world. Which is part of the reason why many graduated fashion designers feel stuck between the two worlds of creativity and digital commerce.
Emergence of bridge designers
In response to these changes, the term “bridge designers” has emerged. Bridge designers represent a new kind of fashion professionals who straddle the line between creativity and commerce. They are adept at integrating innovative design with market trends and consumer preferences. One of the key characteristics of bridge designers is their dual expertise. Bridge designers possess strong creative skills and a keen understanding of market dynamics. They can create designs that are both aesthetically pleasing and commercially viable. Bridge designers are flexible and able to adapt quickly to changing market trends and consumer behaviours. They analyse customer data points ensuring that their designs remain relevant and desirable. Bridge designers often work closely with marketing and sales teams to ensure that their designs align with brand strategies and consumer expectations. This collaborative approach helps to create cohesive collections that resonate with the target audience.
Streetwear designers laying the foundations
While bridge designers operate within the commercial constraints of the brand, bridge designers find ways to infuse creativity and innovation into their work. They are skilled at balancing artistic expression with practical considerations. A great example of a bridge designer Virgil Abloh, a very successful self made streetwear designer who made the leap into luxury fashion. As the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear and the founder of Off-White, Abloh exemplified the bridge designer. He combined streetwear influences with high fashion, creating collections that were both trendsetting and commercially successful.
Another example is the creative director Demna Gvasalia who was the co-founder of Vetements. At Balenciaga, Gvasalia’s work blends avant-garde design with a keen sense of what appeals to modern consumers. With his bachelor degree in international economics and master’s degree in Fashion Design, he was able to incorporate both as his strengths. His ability to create buzzworthy pieces that sell well has solidified his status as a bridge designer. Even using other brands in his designs like Ikea, DHL and crocs. His unconventional outlook on fashion is what makes his work stand out and resonate with the current fashionable generation.
The shift towards commerce-driven design has fundamentally changed the landscape of fashion. While it may signify the end of the traditional creative director role focused solely on artistic vision. This trend has given rise to a new generation of designers who can successfully navigate the complexities of the modern fashion industry. Incorporating marketing, data insights and e-commerce to better suit the current generation. These bridge designers represent the future of fashion, where creativity and commerce are not mutually exclusive but rather complementary forces that drive the industry forward.
Image source: Louis Vuitton